Modelling of velocities in unusually large waves / by M. Skafel, W. Drennan, S. Kjeldsen. : En13-5/97-106E-PDF

"The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented onnumerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves.in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique, modified to account for an opposing current, is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the, present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging significantly better than the other two models"--Abstract.

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Publication information
Department/Agency Canada. Environment Canada.
National Water Research Institute (Canada)
Meeting name Canadian Coastal Conference (1997 : Guelph, Ont.)
Title Modelling of velocities in unusually large waves / by M. Skafel, W. Drennan, S. Kjeldsen.
Series title NWRI contribution ; 97-106
Publication type Series - View Master Record
Language [English]
Format Electronic
Electronic document
Note(s) Title from cover.
Paper presented at Canadian Coastal Conference, 1997.
Digitized edition from print [produced by Environment and Climate Change Canada].
Includes bibliographical references.
Abstract in English and French.
Publishing information Burlington, Ont. : Environment Canada, Water Science and Technology Directorate,[1997].
Author / Contributor Skafel, M. G.
Drennan, William M.
Kjeldsen, S. P.
Description [11] p. : ill.
Catalogue number
  • En13-5/97-106E-PDF
Subject terms Ocean energy
Hydrology
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