00000nam 2200000za 4500 9.846493 CaOODSP 20241203113640 cr ||||||||||| 171101s1997 onca|||fo f000 0 eng d CaOODSP eng eng fre n-cn-on En13-5/97-106E-PDF Skafel, M. G. Modelling of velocities in unusually large waves [electronic resource] / by M. Skafel, W. Drennan, S. Kjeldsen. Burlington, Ont. : Environment Canada, Water Science and Technology Directorate, [1997]. [11] p. : ill. NWRI contribution ; 97-106 Title from cover. Paper presented at Canadian Coastal Conference, 1997. Digitized edition from print [produced by Environment and Climate Change Canada]. Includes bibliographical references. "The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented onnumerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves.in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique, modified to account for an opposing current, is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the, present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging significantly better than the other two models"--Abstract. Abstract in English and French. gccst Ocean energy gccst Hydrology Drennan, William M. Kjeldsen, S. P. Canada. Environment Canada. National Water Research Institute (Canada) Canadian Coastal Conference (1997 : Guelph, Ont.) NWRI contribution ; no. 97-106 (CaOODSP)9.844121 PDF 855 KB https://publications.gc.ca/collections/collection_2017/eccc/En13-5-97-106-eng.pdf