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008171101s1997    onca|||fo    f000 0 eng d
040 |aCaOODSP|beng
041 |aeng|bfre
043 |an-cn-on
0861 |aEn13-5/97-106E-PDF
1001 |aSkafel, M. G.
24510|aModelling of velocities in unusually large waves |h[electronic resource] / |cby M. Skafel, W. Drennan, S. Kjeldsen.
260 |aBurlington, Ont. : |bEnvironment Canada, Water Science and Technology Directorate,|c[1997].
300 |a[11] p. : |bill.
4901 |aNWRI contribution ; |v97-106
500 |aTitle from cover.
500 |aPaper presented at Canadian Coastal Conference, 1997.
500 |aDigitized edition from print [produced by Environment and Climate Change Canada].
504 |aIncludes bibliographical references.
5200 |a"The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented onnumerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves.in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique, modified to account for an opposing current, is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the, present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging significantly better than the other two models"--Abstract.
546 |aAbstract in English and French.
69207|2gccst|aOcean energy
69207|2gccst|aHydrology
7001 |aDrennan, William M.
7001 |aKjeldsen, S. P.
7101 |aCanada. |bEnvironment Canada.
7102 |aNational Water Research Institute (Canada)
7112 |aCanadian Coastal Conference |d(1997 : |cGuelph, Ont.)
830#0|aNWRI contribution ;|vno. 97-106|w(CaOODSP)9.844121
85640|qPDF|s855 KB|uhttps://publications.gc.ca/collections/collection_2017/eccc/En13-5-97-106-eng.pdf